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Before buying a kit, check the inside of the toilet tank for obvious problems. If the toilet is running constantly it could something as simple as a foreign obstruction keeping the flapper valve from closing. The rod holding the float might have gotten bent. The chain between the flush lever and the flapper valve could be tangled, holding the flapper open. If none of these are found then it’s time to replace some parts.
Heating/Air Conditioning – A lot of the older homes are heated with oil or an oil/kerosene blend. This can get extremely expensive in the winter months especially if you live in a colder location. Central heat and air is a popular feature, just make sure both are in working order before you sign on the dotted line. I didn’t and found out by accident that my central air didn’t work. I was fortunate in that the guy that owns the park had it fixed the next morning at his expense. If that had been on my dollar, it would probably still be needing repair in 2015!
Cut two pieces of lumber to exceed the height or width of your new opening by about 4”. Center them vertically on each side of the opening, or along the top and bottom leaving half their width exposed. If using studs for screwing surfaces, just install a single board in the center or along the opposite side of the opening. Position the board(s) behind the surrounding drywall in the cavity between studs. Use your drill to drive drywall screws through the drywall and the wood brace at the ends or along the opening.
Load about half of a 4-inch taping-knife blade with joint compound and, holding the knife at a 45-degree angle, apply it to the seams. Apply the next layer with a 6-inch blade after the first layer is completely dry, usually after 24 hours. Do the same for the third layer, only this time use the 10-inch blade. Finally, smooth the surface when it is completely dry with a wet sponge and sand the seams with the sandpaper wrapped around the sanding block.